Selecting the wood is going to be the first order of business. There are several sources on the internet, search tropical hardwoods or exotic hardwoods. A local lumber yard or cabinetmaker is also a possibility. Whatever you choose should be hard and very dry so it won't shrink later. The wood should be at least 5/8" thick for regular style grips, ½" might make it for the gunfighter style. Could also be made from 2" stock split in half, whatever you use will need to have 1 flat, reasonably smooth side. Could be done on a planer or jointer, I used a mill and fly cut 1 side. I have even thought about laminating different kinds of wood to make it look like inlay. Just make sure the glue you use is right for the type of wood, some hardwoods are oily and don't like glue.

Do all steps in order.

Click to Enlarge Photos

Photo #1

Begin the layout by placing your old grips on the flat side of the wood, orienting the grain to suit yourself. I believe the layout shown is called book matching. On dark woods a silver pencil is helpful.




Photo #2

Saw leaving 1/16" or more, except where grip meets frame near hammer. (See photo) You can saw using a band saw, jig saw, saber saw or even a coping saw. You'll see why you need extra material when you begin the fit in photo #3




Photo #3

Knock out the roll pin with a punch so you'll have a flat surface to work on.

On the flat side of stock cut or file out a triangle to clear the gusset on grip frame, make sure grip still fits flat on frame. Now begin the fit where the grip fits in the crotch at top of frame. Hint; nothing is a 90 deg. angle here. This part must fit close to look right, and when you get it fit to suit yourself there must be enough wood left around the grip for the final fit. Sand these 2 edges to final smoothness, 220 grit is OK.




Photo #4

You will need a C clamp or a vise grip to clamp the grip to the frame. Where you fit the corner must be pressed into the crotch to its best fit before clamping. Drill with a 5/32" bit thru the roll pin hole. CAREFUL, the hole needs only to be 3/16" or less deep. You might want to drive the pin in now and check how you did before you screw up both grips. OK? Now do the other side




Photo #5

Replace the roll pin, press grips on and mark the straight line on the butt end for cutting.

Remove grips for next step.




Photo 6

Determine what angle you'd like and cut off excess. Leave the line, sand or file for the fit you want. Don't do this on gun. I like the grips to fit just to the inside of the small radius on the grip frame. Take it easy, you can't replace any wood after you've taken off too much. Sand to final finish with 220 grit.




Photo #7

Using an old grip, mark one side for the screw hole. Replace grip on frame and make sure screw will clear hammer spring. Drill thru with a 1/8" bit.




Photo 8


Clamp both grips in place and drill thru the hole you just made to drill the other side.




Photo #9

Mark front strap and back strap for cutting.




Photo #10

Saw off excess, leave line.




Photo #11 & 12

Using the old grips for a pattern, mark the arc on the butt.( If you want something different, now's the time) Draw a straight line across the high point of this arc. Mark the thickness you want on the crotch end and draw straight line between these 2 points. (Photo #12) A flexible rule (tape measure) is handy for this. Saw off the excess.




Photo #13

Startin' to look like a set of grips!




Photo #14 Photo #14

Don't do any of this work with the grips on the gun. Start whittlin'. You're on your own here. I used a small handheld belt sander to do this step. A small disc sander or drum sander would also work. Even a coarse, sharp file would work. That would be more period correct if that sort of thing matters to ya. At this point you only need to get close, save the final fit for later.




Photo # 15 & 16

Next items are the escutcheons for the screw. These are brass with a ¼" in dia. with a 3/16" counter bore. The small end is also 3/16" dia. There is a clearance hole for the screw in one and a 6-40 thread in the other. (RUGER) The grips are bored and counter bored accordingly and the escutcheons are pressed or glued in place. Saw off the excess before continuing. (Photo #16)




Photo #17 & 18

Put the grips on and try the screw to see if all's well. OK? Next mark the front and back strap with a sharp pencil. Remove grips and sand or file to these lines, make the lines just disappear. They are cut 90 deg. to the flat side, should look like a flat when done. (Photo #18) Continue on the final grip shape. Repeat these 2 steps until everything fits and feels like you want. I use 80 grit to sand out tool marks and then 220 grit to finish.




Photo #19

Ready for finishing. You can use nothing at all or some sort of oil or varnish, Krylon clear works fine. These grips are coco bolo. it's so hard you can polish it. I finished with a fine Scotchbrite pad. If you want to change something later it's no big deal this way.




Photo #20

A pair to draw to! These are quite oversized to fit my size large hand, may get checkered or glass beaded for extra traction. Have fun with it!